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Reisavontuur: Lousy stay at Lamjura La (3550)
Avonturier(s): | Booz |
Continent: | Azie |
Land: | Nepal |
Aanvang: | 16 Mei 2003 |
Einde: | 18 Mei 2003 |
ast night I slept real good, we got up
at 5.00 and after a light breakfast we started walking at 6.00. At
first sight I thought that I recoverd well during the night, but after
200meters I noticed I had no energy left anymore, my body felt ampty
and my legs weak as wet towels.
Imagine feeling like this and then have
the knowledge you have to climb a rockie staircase of a 2000meters high
towerwith a 20KG backpack on a 35Celsius full sunny side of a mountain.
I got up high very slowely, even porters passed me by every now and
then. Man, do I respect those people which some of them carry up to
120KG on a 14 day walk. I lost the Pauls pretty fast but we agreed to
have a break at Sete (2575meters) together. I was in Sete at 11.00 and
they left a note sticked to a hut, which said that they passed at 9.45
and would wait for lunch at Goyam (3200meters). Damned, I feel bad and
I was already racing to keep upo their fast pace. I had a quick Coke
and kept on going step by step getting higher. On my way to Goyam a
Sherpa woman tried to stop me and tell me something, but her english
didn't make sense to me. She took my hand and brought me in her wooden
hut. Here a boy was lying on a bunk with an amazingly big hole in his
head just above his right eye. There was a gap of at least 3 cm between
the parts of flesh. It was infected and the kid was shaking and having
a high fever. I found out that a rock had been fallen on his had 3 days
before. Luckily my mother had arranged some high-tech materials before
I left holland. There was no way that I would heve the guts to stitch
the wound, but something had to be done so i got creative. I cleaned
the wound with my last bottle of virus-free water and a whole bottle of
Betadine. From some hightech plasters i made little strips to glue the
wound together, over that I put some Biogaze to keep it sterile and i
covered everything with a piece of bandage which I stole from my
grandmothers resthouse. Beside this I made a childrens-receipe for an
antibiotics-cure by sticking the pills on a calendar and explaining the
mother that she should keep the wound clean (thanks to the lonelyplanet
while I gave away my other parts of the antibiotics together with the
manual to Paul) I only can hope I did the right thing and that the kid
will be fine by now.
After an hour of steep climbing I reached the city
of Goyam (3200mters) where the English waited nearly 2 hours for me,
after they ordered lunch for me they directly left for Junbesi. And I
told them that I would make it to Junbesi whatever would happen, they
were kind of sceptical but believed me anyway.
Then at a sudden the
weather changed, it started to rain and soon afterwards it was followed
by big hailrocks falling out of the sky. I still didn't reach the 3550
meters high pass when it started to snow real hard, I was to exhausted
to change clothes so I was walking there in a shorts a shirt, soaken
wet. Pretty stupid of course ! Then a Sherpa woman offered me a cup of
warm yak-milk and let me sit by the fire. I kept on shivering and
didn't get warm anymore. I changed my clothes put on all of my fleeces,
thermals and my jacket and still couldn't get warm. A lot of porters
and locals started to look for shelter as well and things really got
cosy after a while besides the fire, Nepali music, dancing and hot milk
coffees. I decided to stay the night there and get up at 4.00 to walk
down. I put up my tent in the snow and spend the night at the pass, I
was to tired to go down the same evening, besides it was dark already
and had been walking for 12 hours. Damned I slept well that night !
I
got up at 4 and speeded down to Junbesi in a dense mist through a misty
magnolia forrest, very magical but I also was a bit freightened, hat
should I do when a bear is attacking me ? I was in Junbesi very fast
:-)
The English waited for me and were very happy to see me again.
First I wanted to stay in Junbesi i really was broken down till the
bone. but after a porridge breakfast and a Coke I decided to come as
far as possible. after 30 minutes going up again I couldnt stand on my
legs anymore. One of the Pauls had arranged a porter in between so I
could regain my strength and still move on with the porter carrying my
backpack. The porter a little Sherpaguy was called Arbi-Sherpa and
would cost me 300rs and one Dal Bhaat meal a day. I really was happy
with him, but still at the village of Ringmu just underneath the
Takshindo La I decided to splitt up with the English. Last days more
felt like a race to me and thats a pity because the surroundings are so
beutifull overhere. I wanna enjoy my stay rather then racing over
passes into valleys and only see my feet instead of the roof of the
world. I said goodbey to the english and went to bed early in a hotel
which was run by some 10 years old kids. The next day I felt so sick
that i only could walk 2 hours to the city of Nunthala. I wouldhave a
restday here and sleep a lot and try to get rid of my fever by taking
some medicines (Coldex, Paracetemol) I still couldnt eat much but in
the evening after an 8 hours sleep a woman gave me a can of sour cream
onion pringles and this was the turmimg point in my appetite. I ate the
whole can and the evening got very intresting wit some people in the
lodge of the Himalyan Trust Foundation. They told me a lot about the
region of Solu-Khumbu, the education program they stand for, the
development of the region and a lot more.
Next day I felt better and
felt that I regained some more of my strength, the porter was still
with me so I didn't have to carry my bag and really enjoyed my walk up
to Bhupsa, I had a real nice room in the YelowTopLodge and saw the
first 8000mters+ snowcapped mountains early in the morning from my bed
next day.
On the way to Chauri Kharka (8 hours walk) we paused in Paiya
and I had a play of soccer there with some little kids, after the play
they discovered the white hairs on my brown arms and legs and the whole
soccerteam started to pull out the hairs of my body. So I probably come
back as a bold white negro. After hugging every single one of them I
left to Chauri Kharka together with my Porter.
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